On Tuesday night, we picked up friends who had just arrived in town to go out for dinner. We went to Habesha, the local favorite Ethiopian restaurant. After we enjoyed our meal, we piled back into the car to return them to their guesthouse. We hadn't gone but two blocks when we were pulled over at a police check point.
Just to give you an idea of what a Kenyan police check point it like, they are usually along a busier section of road, usually with some kind of barrier (like spike strips or cones in the lanes) so you have to slow down, and more frequent at night. When you approach one, you slow down of course. In order to stop you, the policeman waves you over with his hand (in the day) or with his flashlight (at night). You pull over to the side, roll down the window, greet him/her and give them your driver's license. After checking it and your insurance sticker in the window, they usually let you go. This is the norm for most expatriates.
However, on Tuesday, we neglected to make sure that everyone in the car had their seat belts fastened when we started on our way. Two of us in the back were without belts. The officer noticed that and told us it would be a 1000 Ksh fine (about $13) per person. We knew we were in the wrong, but the problem is that most of these police stops are about corruption, and the officer usually pockets the fine they are charging you. So, in order to combat this, we make sure things are done by the book thus not contributing to this mindset.
So, we explain that yes, we are wrong and would be happy to pay as long as he can give us a receipt for the fine. As is typical, he doesn't have a receipt book on him, so we'll have to go to the police station to get one. Okay with us, but he'll need to accompany us to the police station. Normally the officer then asks for a ride, but the car is full (and they are technically supposed to have a car around to take them to the station if they need to go). He says he needs to call the car, which he proceeds to do. We are waiting in the meantime.
Of course I'm kicking myself because I KNEW there was a police check just at this corner. It is within blocks of our house and we pass it all the time. I MEANT to tell everyone to buckle up, but I didn't. Now we are waiting, our guests have arrived today and are probably ready for bed. With traffic in Nairobi, we should have been wearing our seat belts any way!
After waiting a bit more, another police officer comes up to the window and asks us how things are, where we're going, what we're doing in Kenya. We say we're fine, returning our guests to the guesthouse a few miles away, and are missionaries in Kenya - that is why we need a receipt for the fine so we can account for the money we spend. After a bit of comment, this second officer tells us that he is glad we are doing church work and since we have now buckled up, he'll just give us a warning and talk to his fellow officer. We thank him and are on our way.
That's the end of the story, and this post is getting long, but I want to add a bit here. To be honest, I'm not surprised the story ended with us getting a warning and sent on our way. But, we were in the wrong. Why didn't we pay a fine? Well, to begin with white expatriates (missionaries in particular) have been fighting this small time corruption of traffic stop "bribes" for a while. Thus whenever you are white and pulled over at a stop, they know you are going to put up a fight and demand the letter of the law be followed. As a result, we don't get asked for many "bribes" for made-up offences. The only time we get asked to pay is when we are really in the wrong like this occassion. However, you'll notice we still didn't pay.
Why? Because either (1) they don't want to take the time to uphold the letter of the law (taking us to the police station to get a receipt) because they know they're missing opportunities to stop others or (2) they can't uphold the letter of the law because they are pitifully understaffed and thus don't really have a vehicle at their disposal to take them to the station or to do anything if a real threat arrises. Option 1 makes me angry, but so does option 2.
What do I do now? Well, as an expatriate living in a developing country, I have come to realize that there is not a lot I can physically DO as any kind of change started by an oustider would be seen as only the issue of that outsider. If I leave, so does the issue. So, I have come to the conclusion that I must pray for my Kenyan brothers and sisters to be able to see the needs and fight for them, to make it THEIR issue and for God to transform this culture through His Word.
